February 21, 2008

Fashion Recipes. New York Fashion Week: Fall 2008 - Trends in Review

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Rachel Yeomans for Second City Style

Once again, a mere tent has turned New York’s Bryant Park into a separate fashion kingdom. The lofty fountain as the centerpiece surrounded by throngs of loyal bedazzled subjects, all waiting impatiently to be ushered into the court’s runway — a tribute only bestowed to those honored to receive personalized invitations. Those fortunate subjects are then ushered into a world of lights, celebrities and - above all - pristine style for a magical and forever-remembered 20 minutes. Then, as the lights return and we are jerked back to reality, we jump from our seats, fight through the crowds clutching our regal gifts and handbags to return to the fountain and wait with breath abated to see if we have been fortunate enough to be chosen to reenter for the next phase of royal treatment.

Seven days and 67 shows later, our feet hurt and the swag is just something extra for us to carry. This year’s Fall Fashion Week was a tremendous display of amazing fashion and festive parties, but I was secretly relieved to give my heels a vacation and don my slippers for the recovery my feet deserved.

Styles you can look forward to come autumn:
Feathers - Marchesa, Monique Lhuillier, Naeem Kahn, Bill Blass, Carolina Herrera, Diane von Furstenberg, Donna Karan, Michael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez and Derek Lam

Read more "New York Fashion Week: Fall 2008 - Trends in Review" here

February 15, 2008

Designers. Thuy Says You CAN Wear White After Labor Day.

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Among the many designers that showed their fall collections in New York last week, Thuy Diep's self-named label, pronounced "Twee", truly shined. From the fiery red leather gloves to the mustard yellow skirt to the opaque indigo tights, this collection is simply to die for.  Finding inspiration in imperfection, Diep focused on contrasting elements such as masculine and feminine, opaque and sheer, colors and neutrals, and asymmetrical shapes. The end result screams sophistication and romanticism, which is exactly what the young New York based designer envisioned for her collection.

Considering her many mentions in, among other magazines, Elle, Lucky, WWD, and NYLON (which I ran to my closet, pulled the October issue off the shelf, and flipped through until I found the blurb on her, shocked that I'd initially overlooked it) this girl is going to be around for a long time. Despite her self-described "understated" style, anyone that can pair a chunky camel sweater with a black silk skirt and purple tights (and not look like Mary-Kate Olsen) deserves an overstated applause.

Check out www.thuynewyork.com to learn more about the designer and her work.

—Emilie Furda

February 14, 2008

Project Runway Season Four. Episode Eleven: Mighty Aphrodite's Night at the Museum. Memorable Quotes

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Since we now know the five remaining designers already showed at Fashion Week, this episode was a bit of a let-down. True, the viewing audience will not see Sweet P or either Chris or Rami's collections, but they still got to show at Bryant Park. So in a way, they all won. But, BravoTV thinks we are all idiots, so here we go...

In this final challenge episode titled "The Art of Fashion" the five remaining designers found themselves at the Metropolitan Museum of Art on the Upper East Side...going to the Upper East Side seemed to freak out the designers for some reason. Anyway, The Met is jam packed with masterpieces - 5,000 years of art and artifacts, in fact. The challenge: choose a work of art to serve as the inspiration of a look of their choice. Armed with cameras the designers had 45 minutes to find and photograph their inspiration from three halls: the Greek and Roman Sculpture courtyard, the European Painting wing, and the Temple of Dendur.

Back at Parson's they had an hour to sketch and 30 minutes at MOOD with a budget of $300. They then had two days to complete their design.

The guest judge was Roberto Cavalli who was a hoot mainly because you couldn't understand his thick Italian accent or he was drunk...or both. I particularly loved the subtitles for his English! His comments were priceless. I think.

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Christian: Winner!

His look was inspired by a 17th Century Spanish portrait by Bartolome Esteban Murillo.It was a fabulous interpretation of military meets womenswear.

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Chris

His inspiration was an 18th Century portrait of the Marquise D’Argence by Nattier. Instead of napping, he should have made sure his collar didn't look exactly like the design he and Christian had done in an earlier challenge. The judges noticed and were not pleased. Wait, that's not true. Cavalli loved it, but he had not seen the aforementioned design. Truth be told, I loved it.

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Rami

Everyone but Rami saw this coming. Rami was the only designer to use a sculpture for his inspiration and guess what? It was a 1st Century AD sculpture of Aphrodite! Quelle surprise! His dress was gorgeous as usual, but totally predictable "Rami draping." It was almost his undoing.

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Jillian

Her inspiration was a 15th Century narrative battle painting entitled, “Master of the Argonauts.” Her military-inspired fitted jacket in black with gold piping and lining was amazing. Underneath was a matching gold lame mini-dress. The judges loved it and welcomed her to Bryant Park.

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Sweet P: Loser!

Her inspiration was a 17th Century Dutch painting entitled “Peacocks.” We are so sorry to see her go, but it was her time. She should have used feathers! Lord knows every other designer at Fashion Week did! The dress was cute, but too contemporary and lacked any 'wow' factor.

In the end, the judges were deadlocked about Rami and Chris. So, both were to create collections and compete for a spot in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week at Bryant Park. They each had to present to their three strongest looks to the judges to determine who will show.

One more thing: Now, since Fashion Week was last week and Bravo TV is going to stretch this season out long as humanly possible to capitalize on advertising revenue (I mean come on, we have to have a reunion show, right?) we already know that all 5 showed. However, which three will air on TV remains to be seen. Judging by what we saw...our money is on Rami. He actually showed some depth and dimension not to mention the ability to break out of draping...if pushed.

Oh and another thing, how boring is their reunion going to be? They all got along pretty well.

Memorable Quotes:

"There is no way he's not making something Grecian and draped." - Chris about Rami

"So many amazing paintings in there (museum) and actually clothing on people." - Chris

"Look, Joan Rivers carved her initials in here when she was a little girl!" - Chris

"Wow. I took like 238 pictures." - Sweet P

"I'm not shameful about choosing Aphrodite. This is what I do." - Rami

"Honey, is there any fabric left at Mood?" Chris to Christian

"He's making like 15 pieces and I'm on my first pattern." - Sweet P  about Christian

"I'm not here to make noise - I'm here to make beautiful work." - Rami

"I sew fast. Get over it. If you don't then get over it." - Christian

"I'm so over it." - Christian

"I'm so over it too." - Jillian

"I just wanted to lay down." - Chris

"Are you joking? It's the last challenge. You can't take a nap!" - Christian

"I know I'm the youngest designer, but truthfully, I think I have the most cohesive ideas of anyone." - Christian

"Is it wowable?" - Tim Gunn to Chris

"I know. It's fabulous and the blouse looks so good on me." - Christian to Tim Gunn

"Nobody really hated each other (this season)." - Chris

"Every 5 minutes I wanted to cut somebody." - Christian

"Oh my God. I have to look amazing. I have to make sure my hair looks extra fierce!" - Christian

"I don't wan to go back to working in a cubicle and working on someone else's vision. So I hope that I make it to Fashion Week." - Jillian

"Give them that electric shock that sends Nina's shoes across the runway!" - Tim Gunn

"It's a little but marshmellow-y." - Jillian about Christian's design

"Going to Bryant Park would be like winning the lottery." - Chris

"Yeah, we want eyebrows for days." - Christian

"I'm passionate about draping." - Rami (ya think?)

"I think it's super, super, super chic." - Michael Kors

"I think the dress does great things for her body and that's what clothes are supposed to do." - Michael Kors

"How predictable for you to chose Greek and Roman drapery. I mean come on!" - Michael Kors to Rami

"I want to see you cut out of this box." - Nina to Rami

"I don't have so much to say (ha, ha) about that dress." Guest judge, Roberto Cavalli about Sweet P's design

"You keep me very surprised...in a good way." - Nina to Jillian

"She's ballsy." - Heidi Klum about Jillian

"He delivered." - Nina about Christian

"He's a showman." - Michael Kors about Chris

"I'm a big cry baby." - Sweet P

"It was our last challenge before Bryant Park and I wanted to go." - Sweet P...and she did!

Photos: BravoTV.com

February 13, 2008

Second City Style's New York Fashion Week Reviews at a Glance

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Carmen Marc Valvo Fall '08

For those of you who have been M.I.A. or just simply too busy to be keeping up with the reviews from New York Fashion Week Fall '08, this list from Second City Style should make it a bit easier to view and review the latest collections from your favorite designers.

3.1 Phillip Lim
Abaete
Academy of Art University
Akiko Ogawa
Alexandre Herchcovitch
Angel Sanchez
Araks
Badgley Mischka
BCBG MaxAzria
Behnaz Sarafpour
Betsey Johnson
Bill Blass
Brian Reyes
Calvin Klein
Carlos Miele
Carmen Marc Valvo
Carolina Herrera
Chris Han
Cynthia Steffe
Diane von Furstenberg
Donna Karan
Doo.Ri
Elie Tahari
Erin Fetherston
Herve Leger by MaxAzria
Iodice
Jason Wu
Jenni Kayne
Jill Stuart
Joanna Mastroianni
Lacoste
Lela Rose
Malan Breton
Mara Hoffman
Marc Jacobs
Marchesa
MaxAzria
Michael Kors
Monique Lhuillier
Na-Be by Victorya Hong
Naeem Kahn
Narcisco Rodriguez
Nicole Miller
Oscar de la Renta
Peter Som
Ports 1961
Proenza Schouler
Project Runway Designers
Ralph Lauren
Reem Acra
Richard Chai
Rubin Singer
Sari Gueron
Sass & Bide
Temperley
Thakoon
The Heart Truth
Tony Cohen
Tracy Reese
Twinkle by Wenlan
Vera Wang
Verrier
Willow
Y & Kei
Yeohlee
Yigal Azrouel
Zac Posen

February 12, 2008

NYC Events. Second City Style & Papierdoll Magazine's "Meet the Designer"

Last Wednesday, February 6, 2008 Second City Style and Papierdoll Magazine co-hosted their first in a new Fashion Week series called "Meet the Designer" in conjunction with Style Salon and Projekt NYC at at the Hotel QT near Times Square.

Emerging fashion designer Jedda-Kahn was the premier designer of the series which will continue every Fashion Week moving forward. This series of events is meant to shine the spotlight on emerging designers, artists, and photographers.

Sponsors for the event were: Philips, Make Up Forever, Solerra Sunless Tanning Mitts, Rusk, The Body Shop and Nuvo.

The show...

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The designer...

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Jedda-Kahn (left) with "Gossip Girl" Nicola Fiscella

The scene...

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Joy Doss of east-west PR (left)

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Angie Trelsted from (event sponsor) Solerra & Lauren Dimet Waters of Second City Style

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Read a review at Bibi Magazine

Trends. NY Fashion Week Fall '08. The Colors & Designers Who Used Them

Here are some of the colors we saw repeatedly on the Fall '08 runway. More than three designers...makes it a trend.

Red

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L-R: Marchesa, Carmen Marc Valvo, Donna Karan

Monique Lhuillier, Oscar de la Renta, Reem Acra, Joanna Mastroianni, Twinkle

Orange

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L-R: Alexander Herchocvitch, Brian Reyes, Phillip Lim

Carolina Herrara, Charles Nolan, Ports 1961, Willow, Vera Wang, Richard Chai, Y & Kei, Narciso Rodriguez

Purple

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L-R: Abaete, Bill Blass, Behnaz Sarafpour

Diane von Furstenberg, Oscar de la Renta, Zac Posen, Chris Han, Richard Chai, Reem Acra, Proenza Schouler, Michael Kors, Thakoon, Tracy Reese, Erin Fetherston

Triscut (Wheat Thins, or Beige...whatever)

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L-R: Brian Reyes, Harve Leger, BCBG

Twinkle, Willow, Chris Han, Proenza Schouler, Lela Rose, Verrier, Yeohlee

Grey

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L-R: Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Yogal Azrouel

Preen, Phillip Lim, Ports 1961, Narciso Rodriguez, MaxAzria, Doo.Ri, Jill Stuart, Diane von Furstenberg,Tracy Reese, Twinkle, Harve Leger, Alexander Herchcovitch

Mustard

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L-R: Proenza Schouler, Reem Acra, Carlos Miele

Behnaz Sarafpour, Monique Lhuillier, Carolina Herrara, MaxAzria, Erin Fetherston, Sari Geuron, Nicole Miller

Willow Green

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L-R: Angel Sanchez, Donna Karan, Monique Lhuillier, Nicole Miller

Sari Gueron, Mara Hoffman

Teal

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L-R: BCBG, Y & Kei, Bill Blass

Costello Tagliapietra, Brian Reyes, Nicole Miller, Alexander Herchcovitch

Emerald

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L-R: Ports 1961, Proenza Schouler, Doo.Ri

Tracy Reese, Lela Rose, Alexander Herchcovitch

Photos: NY Mag

February 10, 2008

WTF Was She Thinking?! NY Fashion Week Fall '08: These Styles Should Have Been Left At Home

Yes, this year's fall runway was full of fashion winners...but unfortunately a few of the celebs in the front row were fashion losers...

Here's who topped the list:

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Ginnifer Goodwin at Peter Som

Comment: Ginnifer Goodwin is a bit of a plain Jane, so we were glad to see her at the shows. Unfortunately, she could use a bit of a fashion pick-me-up ... and not in the form of a shiny red dress with poofy pleated front.

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Brooke Shields at J. Mendel

Comment: Really, Brooke, what WERE you thinking? You're supposed to be in a big fashion-y/girls rule the world type movie ... possibly the next Sex and the City. (Ok, we're exaggerating here, Lipstick Jungle probably will never compete with Carrie Bradshaw.) But, really, Brooke, girls everywhere should look up to you as a fashion icon--especially if you're making appearances at the biggest runway shows in the world. Did you have to wear this velvety black shawl thing with the arm cutouts?

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Amy Adams at Proenza Schouler

Comment: Actress Amy Adams is simply divine. And this copper sequined dress is simply not. It's pretty and all, but the tone of the dress is all wrong for Amy, who's hair is the same rusty color making the whole thing a little too matchy-matchy for our taste.

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Anne Hathaway at Erin Fetherston

Comment: We loved Anne's tutu look at the Marchesa presentation. But Anne at the Erin Fetherston runway show--not so much. Sure, it's great that celebs can play with hair extensions, but the bob doesn't work for this normally style-savvy fashionista.  We love Erin Fetherston and we love her designs, but this pale pink dress just hangs on Anne and it doesn't hang well.

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Ellen Pompeo at Marc Jacobs

Comment: We applaud Ellen for trying...she's one of those celebs known more for her pin-thin frame and her acting skills then her fashion stylings. Unfortunately, this burgundy dress just hangs off the actress...and what's with the ugly sheer underlinings. You're not supposed to wear visible lingerie to a fashion event...unless of course you're modeling for Victoria's Secret. Not classy, Ellen, not classy.

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Ali Larter at Calvin Klein

Comment: Sure, Ali, keep thinking you were a hit with your "fashion risk" ensemble.  Sure, this look is cute--for someone in the 1960's!! We're happy you have the abs to pull off a tight mock turtleneck belly shirt and high-waist skinny jeans all in white (we sure as hell don't!) but this look just doesn't suit the chic and stylish crowd at this year's Fashion Week.

Oh, and did we mention these are the Fall shows? Stop wearing colors for spring.

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Debbie Harry at Marc Jacobs

Comment: Debbie Harry is certainly a rocker legend.  But just because you're older and a rock star doesn't mean you can get away with frumpy tie-dye at a fashion show. Debbie, this is a fashion no-no...

Photos: Wireimage, Instyle, People

--Simona Kogan


 

 

 

February 08, 2008

NY Fashion Week Fall '08. Marc Jacobs. Taste Without a Tantrum.

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Summary: My inner cynic says that last year's collection was a bit too bold for the consumer's closet (although it was an amazing indulgence on the runway!) — and that's what accounts for the tame fall presentation. Somewhere between the pretty pieces that launched Jacobs into world renown and the cautious, educated optimism of his last two shows lies the neutral, pastel and polished palette we saw come down the runway. It seems as if the spectacle has shifted from his garments to his choice of entourage — Sonic Youth, Victoria Beckham (?) and bribery?

Color & Fabric: For someone who just discovered the divine madness of his own body, Jacobs surprisingly stuck with floor-length, dresses, modern pantaloon-style trousers, creamy white jackets and beautiful gray tops and sweaters, complimented by the occasional pinstripe or floppy bow.. Like his colleagues he towed the conservative line. Innovation came largely with geometry and the choice of a pastel palette. Even his accessories were tame, bark-colored flat boots and black pumps are what anchored each ensemble.

Photos: Wireimage

NY Fashion Week Fall '08. Jenni Kayne: A Nirvana of Hollywood Glamour

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Summary: As I walked into the Jenni Kayne presentation, which was held in a gorgeous Greenwich townhouse, I overheard the designer discussing her inspiration: the 90’s, Nirvana, Seattle grunge. The cynic in me envisioned cliché’s of flannel and baggy sweaters. Please no Doc Martens.

Moments later, I stepped into the presentation room and standing before me were about 2 dozen models showcasing a fantastic collection. A toned down, brown and black leopard print wool was used for a handful of the pieces - most notably a very Hollywood mermaid skirt. Dusty black and navy blue hues dominated the collection. The bulk of it was very wearable (too wearable, safe?): structured plaid shirts, oversized blazers, and evening (but nothing too evening) dresses.

Ms. Kayne was attempting to channel ‘92 Kurt Cobain, but the result was a bit more ’08 Mary-Kate. Then the cynic in me realized that mimicking either icon was a step in the right direction.

Color Palette: black, navy blue, brown

Textures & Details: fur, wool, silk, leather, cotton jersey, 30’s and 40’s silhouettes

Key Looks: leopard print mermaid skirt, color blocked jersey scoop gown

Photos: Wireimage

NY Fashion Week Fall '08. Donna Karan. From the Boardroom to the Bedroom

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Summary: We were not really getting Donna Karan's silk satin bathrobe or extra long arm cuffs and super big shoulders, but all hope was not lost. Karan herself said she wanted a more unstructured collection and was influenced by rich jewel tones. Luckily there were some structured pieces as well. Flattering tailored suits and wrapped coats were some of our favorite pieces. A few of the silk dresses in sumptuous jewel tones were superbly draped, yet possibly hard for the average woman to wear since they were cut down to the naval.

Color Palette: burnt orange, chartreuse, olive, plum, burgundy, gold, brown, grey, black

Textures & Details: silk, silk charmeuse, chiffon, cashmere, jersey, velvet, suede, leather, tweed, feathers, fringe, extra long cuffs 


Photos: Wireimage

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