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Milan Fashion Week Spring '08. The Retail Buyer's Verdict. Second City Style Fashion Blog

6267

Even though the strong euro made it ridiculously expensive, the pace was impossibly fast (shortened to 4 days)and the weather grim, retailers left Milan in high spirits thanks to a gust of fresh, colorful and feminine fashions, according to WWD.

Collectively, buyers said they welcomed a shift from overt hard-edged sexiness to something softer and more romantic, with lots of floral prints and artistic touches. Praised were collections by Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander, 6267, Marni, Fendi, Prada and Versace. Ethnic-themed prints, transparency and full skirts of all lengths were cited among key trends.

"I'm very, very positive for the spring-summer season. It's luxury, it's feminine, it's colorful — bravo!" enthused Sarah Rutson, fashion director at Hong Kong-based Lane Crawford.

Dolce & Gabbana

"I thought Milan reconfirmed fashion at its best. Usually when there are a lot of ruffles, chiffon and florals, it can end up being too saccharine, but it's not like that this season," added Ann Watson, vice president and fashion director of Henri Bendel. "Many designers mastered restraint and in doing so showed how sexy the power of suggestion can be."

Here's what other retailers had to say:

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus

"There's a bold color statement coming out of Milan, with turquoise looking the newest, plus all the pretty pastels. At Versace, those draped Grecian dresses came out like a rainbow. We also liked this multicultural, global referencing, which keeps some embellishment on the clothes. Another strong message was the hand of the artist: prints that really looked touched by a brush or had an artisanal feel."

Downing also highlighted floaty dirndl skirts, multiple layers of sheer, lightweight fabrics and colorful patent leather accessories. Standout collections included 6267 for "redefined modern femininity"; a "bold and exhilarating Jil Sander"; Marni; Versace and Fendi, which was "intelligent, yet feminine and sophisticated."

Versace

Milan Fashion Week Spring '08. Alberta Ferretti's Beauty and the Greek. Second City Style Fashion Blog

I have to admit, I'm partial to the beauty of Alberta Ferretti. Her Spring 2008 collection was a mix Greek goddess and cinematic metallic glam. The color palette was rather muted mostly employing colors like white, grey, beige and blush but there were some bursts of color and shine like, chartreuse, blue, burnt orange, purple and plum. Many of the aforementioned colors were also shown in metallics and slick patents. I especially loved the dark grey patent. Playing with textures Ferretti's draping and brocade crystal embellishments were stunning. I adored this collection. It did not dissapoint.

- Lauren Dimet Waters

Photos: Elle.com

Milan Fashion Week Spring '08. Emporio Armani's Beyond May Be Beyond Most Figures. Second City Style Fashion Blog

Who wears short shorts? You will if you buy Emporio Armani come spring. Even though the show was all about transformation...everything was still short. Lovely, but short. The collection, titled 'Beyond', transformed cardigans into dresses, jumpsuits into evening wear, and skirts into shorts. The collection was a new take on layered dressing by Armani, but the elegant layers were still short. Armani's signature suiting style is still evident, but I am preying they are a little longer by the time they hit the stores or at the very least...have a big hem. So get those gams into prime shape over the winter, because you will have nowhere to hide.

- Lauren Dimet Waters

Photos: Elle.com

Milan Fashion Week Spring '08. Banned! New York Times's Fashion Critics Banned From Dolce & Gabbana. Second City Style Fashion Blog

According to Fashion Week Daily, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have continued their ban on New York Times's fashion critics Cathy Horyn and Guy Trebay. The New York Times has not attended the duo's shows in the last year. A Dolce & Gabbana spokesperson confirmed The Times was not sent tickets despite having made ticket requests. The fashion front row appear to be missing Horyn & co., however. At Fendi immediately afterward, a boisterous André Leon Talley reacted to Horyn's arrival with a loud, "Oh, there you are!" Meow! Fashion's bitchiness has not borders...

Milan Fashion Week Spring '08. Gucci. Gorgeous and All Grown Up. Second City Style Fashion Blog

Maybe it's the '80s association with unfortunate designers logos and my current confusion with why people still adore Gucci bags, but was caught off guard by this collection: I just adore what Frida Giannini, Gucci's artistic director, has done with her spring collection. Somewhere between La Dolce Vita and what almost appears to be a '60s remake she just stole my heart. Sunflower yellow stands its own next to black and white and while the pink and black and white check ensembles tend to be a bit pushy, it really works. Fresh and still and-god-created-woman sexy. Not only would I wear these bold, graphic dresses but I think everyone else will be too. -- Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com

Milan Fashion Week Spring '08. Midsummer Night's Dream. Marni is Easy, Breezy & Bright. Second City Style Fashion Blog

No cleavage, no super-short hemlines or bodice-hugging bodices (although there are some hot platforms) but why do I feel like I'm still going to a party?  Super shiny, simple dresses boast a barrage of ruffles in brilliant sapphire blue and again, dig the platforms. And while I'm not sure that the pleather-looking pieces are my cup of tea I'm fascinated by a collection that uses an abundance of loose-fitting fabric, chunky jewelry and still looks feminine and fun. -- Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com

Milan Fashion Week Spring '08. Fun with Fuschia in Andalusia. Etro. Second City Style Fashion Blog

Well, OK. Not just fuschia. As many a commentator has remarked, spring in Milan means taking some kind of holiday. And while I am certainly a lover of the laid-back exotic style of the southern coast I wonder if there is a need for all the mis-matched layers. Though, certainly, they are enticing-- bright reds, blues, yellow, turquoise, green and Moor-inspired patterns, large leather belts with metallic accents and scarves worn loosely around the neck-- not to mention the gorgeous billowing dresses that do recall spring more than some of her colleagues' collections. Nevertheless, call me a skeptic but I have a very hard time imagining women pulling this one off.-- Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com

Milan Fashion Week Spring '08. Neo-Art Nouveau. Sexy Swirls and Gothy Glam Girls. Miuccia Prada. Second City Style Fashion Blog

There's something about her eyes. Dark and lovely she appears to be a moody creature.. happy perhaps as the sun is just about to go down and the evening events begin. She's daring, thoughtful but still a bit shy, perhaps one traditionally feminine trait. Whatever she may be Miuccia Prada's spring 08' woman was certainly conceived in response to more of the geometric Deco trends we saw this past fall and even a bit in the spring shows. Per usual, Prada's response to the trend du jour is to ask about its feminine counterpart-- this time the swirling and playful circles and spheres of Art Nouveau-- sans the Victorian timidity.  Excellent.-- Joanne Molina, Senior Editor
Photos: Elle.com

Milan Fashion Week Spring '08. Minimalist Magic Makes Jil Sanders the Best in Show. Second City Style Fashion Blog

Simply stunning. Jil Sander's spring '08 collection is breathtaking. Sincere, simple, and yet provocative in its execution and elaborate examination of fabric, color and form it doesn't shock so much as it inspires. Light and carefree, dresses float down the runway and even ensembles that are layered (many a straight black skinny pant) manage to look lighter than many of his colleagues. Oh, and did I mention that in addition to its amazing aesthetic it's completely and utterly retail-friendly-- something I don't necessary look for but nevertheless find intriguing when paired with such a smart collection.-- Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com

Milan Fashion Week Spring '08. Meow. Just Cavalli is One Crazy Cat. Second City Style Fashion Blog

Warning: Just Cavalli spring 08' is not for the faint-hearted. No, it isn't a gesture towards the avant garde, nor does it show too much skin or make some political statement. Oddly enough, what makes this collection a bit over the top is its explosion of neon animal prints, geometric prints, ruffles, feather, metallic accents, annunciated animal skins (take another deep breath) black and white stripes, frayed denim, cropped shorts, straight leg pants... you get the idea. And while this is certainly a bit of the Cavalli signature, and although I am confused as to what his story is this season, I certainly enjoy watching it unfold.-- Joanne Molina, Senior Editor

Photos: Elle.com